I’ve learned a thing or two about this fickle material. The first thing I’ve learned is; Holy balls does it warp. If you’re printing something rectangular, you’re probably going to either need “mouse ears” or five layers of raft in order to compensate for irregular material cooling. Yes, that’s why warping happens. Material is cooler in one part of the already established material than the rest, so the cooler part contracts and causes the part to warp.

I have an enclosure, but I’ve noticed that the enclosure isn’t enough alone to prevent major warping. A draft shield is going to be key to running off prints that aren’t garbage. You can use the built in draft shield feature on any slicer based on slic3r (such as PrusaSlicer or Orca), but it doesn’t work well for parts that aren’t round or circular. That said, you should create your own circular draft shield. Add a cylinder primitive, turn off infill, put it at one wall thick, adjust the height to match the model you want to print, and then turn off top and bottom layers. That should be enough to get you up and running with ASA, honestly.

Also, beware of rafts. They’re such a pain in the ass. Any time I’ve had to use one I’ve struggled to remove it from the final part. No idea if there’s a better way.

Lastly, there’s an enclosure heater by a company called “Chitu”. Don’t buy it. It’s a little metal heater fan that you think might actually be able to handle the job, but it can barely keep the enclosure at 30 degrees celsius, and ASA prefers 60. It’s useless, pretty much. I wanted so much for it to work, though.